a good kind of change…

In pastry school, one of my chef instructors was ex-military…. If I remember it correctly he was a sniper… though I might be inflating with the advancing years. Chef Sniper told us very early on, “I make pastry.  Pastry has sugar, white flour eggs and butter.  Don’t even ask me about replacing them. That’s not what I do.”  I agreed with him completely.

Do I still agree with Chef Sniper?  Hmmmmmm…. I was convinced of a few things…. For one thing, cakes have butter.  It’s flavor, structure, color, body….  It does so many things that it seemed sacrilege to me to think of doing it any other way.

I often say that everything I do is custom, right down to the flavors.  But generally I stop there. I’ve spent years refining my recipes, and it seems people really enjoy them.   I’ve learned the hard way, and from no less than Hugh Jackman, not to mess with a good thing.  So customization ended with flavor profiles.

Recently an incredibly lovely couple contacted me for their son’s birthday cake.  After we brainstormed a super fun pirate treasure cake, they mentioned that their son had a dairy allergy and asked if I could accommodate that.  Like I always do, I said yes, to worry about it later.

Intrigued I started testing immediately.  Yes, this is my idea of fun. Because it was more of a challenge, I was more worried about creating a yummy dairy free icing than the cake, so that’s where I began.  I tested soy, soy creamer, coconut milk….  So many yummy tests side by side.  I was blown away by how good they all were.  It was a matter of degrees, which I liked better.
I was even more surprised to have found my way to the most delicious chocolate cake I’d ever made!   So yummy that I served it in consultations without mentioning its special nature, and time after time, it was gobbled up.  An empty plate is a always a good sign.   So I switched.  I switched my chocolate cake to this new dairy free one.  I don’t always keep it dairy free, but you wouldn’t notice the difference either way.

Not everything is as easy to replace successfully as dairy is, and even that is not suitable for every kind of cake. Carved cakes require a different kind of structure in the cake than tiered ones. But I’m up for the next challenge.  Test me! Who knows what I’ll stumble on next…  And hearing from my lovely client that she loved the cake, as was so happy to have found options for her dairy challenged son that she couldn’t wait to order the next one.  And that’s just the best thing to hear.  And yes, Sugar Couture now makes dairy free cakes. And, might have a surprise for Chef Sniper.

Yummiest Ever Dairy Free Chocolate Icing

The best way to make this icing is to start it the day before so that it sets well.  It calls for solid coconut cream.  In full fat cans of coconut milk… Thai versions are the best…the rich fatty cream of the coconut milk will separate and float to the top. You’ll want to scoop this off and use only it, reserving the remaining coconut water for another use.   Avoid shaking the cans, to keep this cream in tact. If your can is emulsified, you can place it in the refrigerator and it should set up and solidify.

This batch will ice about 32 cupcakes.

16 oz             best quality semi sweet chocolate

13 oz              solid coconut cream

¼  tsp           salt

16 oz             powdered sugar

-Chop the chocolate finely, either by hand with a serrated knife or in a food processor. Place in a medium sized bowl.

-Scoop off the cream from the cans of coconut milk get 13 oz.  Place cream in a sauce pan and bring just to a boil over medium high heat.   You need to bring it to a boil for it to properly melt the chocolate, but you don’t want to boil it for any length of time.

-Pour the hot coconut cream over the finely chopped chocolate and let it sit for 5 minutes.   Add the salt… chocolate is always better with a bit of salt, and whisk the mixture until fully combined, luscious and glossy.

-Cover the top of the chocolate with a piece of plastic wrap touching the entire surface and let this sit at room temperature for 8-24 hours until firmly set.    If you simply can’t wait, you can refrigerate it a bit to help encourage the firming, but you don’t want it to get too hard or you’ll have to re-warm it and start over.

-When the chocolate is set, beat the powdered sugar into it to sweeten it up a bit.   Don’t add it all at once, but add to taste.  Depending on the strength of the chocolate you’ve used, it may need a bit more or less sugar.  If doing this on a mixer, take care not over beat it or the icing will stiffen and be difficult to use.  Use this immediately to ice cooled cakes or cupcakes, fill eclairs, or eat with a spoon… your call…

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and finally…..

Like the pink fleece pleated pants and sun in hair I sported in the 80′s, soon we’ll look back and say “what were we thinking?”.  It will soon become so ordinary, so accepted that love is celebrated, honored, and contrary opinions will be hushed into a dark corner and ignored.

Today, in New York City, hundreds of couples will tie the knot.  And they will not take this hard earned victory for granted.  I couldn’t have been happier to have been asked to contribute just a small part to the festivities.  In celebration of the 150 couples getting hitched today at the LGBT Center in Manhattan, Sugar Couture sent them a wedding cake.

Nontraditional cake for an nontraditional wedding… my very favorite kind.   I wish them all much love and happiness as they move forward on their adventures together.

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Brittish Invasion

Thrilled to be asked to create a bespoke cake for Tanya Martinez from Save the date for Cupcakes and Stefanie Schiada of Brooklyn Limestone, I had no idea it would be June before we saw it come to life.  But so worth the wait! The girls created the most beautiful setting for a gorgeous British themed wedding luncheon and featured a stand out Sugar Couture cake.  I had been dying to make a blue and red cake for  sooooo long and was thrilled to have the opportunity.  Thanks for indulging me!

Check out the entire article, along with downloadable projects at Hostess with the Mostess.

Photo courtesy of Stefanie Schiada.

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Welcome Home… an Inspiration

A brand new blog!  Well, not exactly new, but a new home. Sugar Couture Cakes and Blog are now both under one roof.  Easier to find, easier to manage and it looks just like it should.  I couldn’t be happier!

And what better to talk about for this semi-inaugural post, than inspiration.

At some point during every class I teach, someone tells me, with a certain authority, that they are not creative.  And this shocks me every time.  Creativity is built into our DNA.  It’s a survival tool, mentally and physically.  Every little detail we figure out to make our days easier, fuller, happier, is an unrecognized creative endeavor.  Rather than a special talent, creativity is a muscle,  and inspiration is its exercise.

I have a policy of not copying other’s cakes.  I avoid this for so many reasons…  I’m not the original creator, so my cake would never look like an exact replica anyway.   Something made for someone else, is not something special just for you, and you are the real inspiration.  So when a client comes for consultation, I ask that they don’t bring photos of other cakes. Once its out there, its so hard to move away from a beautiful design and create something new.  But that doesn’t mean inspiration is limited…  instead, it opens the door for it to be pulled from absolutely anywhere.

When you’re thinking of your cake, especially your wedding cake, the inspiration should come from the hundreds of little choices you’ve already made.  There is delicious detail in the dress, colors, flowers, invites, not to mention your personal style, a special secret between the two of you….  Almost anything.

Of course its great to look at cake photos… it will help you figure out what you like, and don’t like and be a great starting point for a cake conversation. But they can also be limiting, as though that is all that is available to you.    When I started making cakes, of course I looked at and was inspired by other cakes, but while so many of them were beautiful, I didn’t find myself in them.  So I stared looking everywhere else.  Once you open your eyes to the constant inspiration all around you every day, its impossible not to find it.  It’s a way of looking at the world, and it makes the beauty shine a bit brighter in everything you see. Its in the wrought iron of a beautiful railing, in the leaves of the trees, in the contrasting pattern and texture of a strangers outfit.

This cake is all about the inspiration.   Chris came to me for a cake for his partner’s birthday.  He didn’t know what he wanted exactly, but he knew his partner liked Paris, Art Nouveau, Antonio Gaudi, and science fiction.  As we brainstormed together, we thought of Jules Verne.  As the process continued it came out that the guest of honor had also studied film in Paris…. and then it all came together for me.  It made me think of one of the very first films made.  A French film called A Trip to the Moon, and it wrapped up Paris, Science Fiction and Jules Verne, and easily hinted at the Gaudi.  All of this inspiration culminated into this sketch…

And after a bit more client consultation, this sketch became this cake…

If there is one thing I’ve truely learned over the years of making cakes, is to trust the creative inspiration.  It may not take you where you expect, but it will get you there and what a great ride it will be.

The design process has a lot of  back and forth, give an take that has a few false starts, lots of nos, many yeses, and finally together we stumble onto your cake.  My favorite part of a wedding cake consultation is when I hold up the photo and say, is this your cake?  And it is. And we both know it.  It’s yours, and no one else’s.

So when you’re dreaming up your wedding or party, think less about what has been done before, and more about all the things you love.  As you focus on that, it all becomes clear.

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Past lives and Cake Convergance…








I’ve had past lives. Not necessarily the kind where I was Cleopatra, (though if its possible, I’m pretty sure in the last one I was a man), but the kind a lot of people, the most interesting ones at least, seem to have lately. My first love was film and after dreaming about being a great film director, I went to film school, and right after, found myself working on some pretty good stuff. Turns out that I was a pretty decent producer and had the opportunity to make some good work, have some great experiences, and meet some great people. When working on a film, you pretty much become a family… the hours are long and you really don’t have time for anything else in your life, so you become very close to those you work with. When the film is done, everyone goes their own ways and starts their next extended family. You try to keep up with them, you really do.

But then in your next life…(or on facebook) you can sometimes cross creative paths again. And this is how I reconnected my cake life with the fabulous Yale Gurney. A million years ago, Yale was a production assistant on a documentary about modeling that I produced, working on his own film career. Now, in his second life, he’s a brilliantly talented photographer. Its fun to discover your talents can stretch further than you ever knew. (who knew I could carve cake???) One of the more valuable lessons I’ve learned is that if you trust yourself to do your best, you’ll always be surprised by what you’re capable of.

Yale’s photographs are rich and soulful. He’s equally adept with still life, portraits, has a keen eye for documentary, and capturing a moment. Lucky for me, he was able to lend his talents to one of my recent favorite cakes. For her 40th birthday at Lucky Strikes in Manhattan, Lauren wanted a cake that was all about her… and Lauren is all about shoes. And travel. And glamourousness. And shoes. So her birthday cake was as fabulous as she is, and photographed on scene by the talented Yale Gurney. I’m thrilled to be able to share his photos with you. Everything you see is edible, make up, jewels, blackberry, shoe heel, passport… everything is sugar paste, and even the oreo packet, which contained real oreos!






Check out his web site and behind the photo blog for glimpses into the back stories.
www.yalegurney.com
http://yalegurney.com/blog/

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Custom Wedding Favors…

Guests plan. They travel. They buy dresses and suits, and often very generous wedding gifts. Favors acknowledge their kindness and send them away with a sweet thought. The tradition goes back to the times when weddings were believed to be good luck and sending your guest home with a trinket, often a porcelain box filled with a sugar treat, would pass that good luck to them.

Today’s wedding favors can be almost anything, but so often these well meant tokens end up in a drawer, until, lets face it, you get up the courage to toss them out. The best way to avoid the guilt and the clutter is an edible favor. Whether they gobble them up on the car ride home, or savor them the next day, edible wedding favors conjure up wonderful memories of the day, and satisfy a sweet tooth.

While most of my hours are spent in cake creations, for me favors can be a welcome creative diversion. I love the challenge of coming up with just the right idea for each couple.

Stacey and David are avid scrabble players, and they wanted something special that their guests would enjoy, but would make them grin with recognition at their long term passion. So with this inspiration, Sugar Couture created scrabble board cookie favors, 6″ across, with “DAVID AND STACEY LOVE U” spelled out on the board. Wrapped in beautiful bow tied boxes, their guests treasured the thoughtful gift as they made their way through the huge cookie!

For an elegant wedding at the Plaza, a long time client and wedding planner ordered mini chocolate boxes, with two blossom chocolates in each box. The white chocolate treats were sprinkled with pink peppercorn centers, and filled with a luscious candied ginger ganache. Each box had a bow in a matching ribbon color and a label with the couple’s name and date.

One of my favorite favor options we make are our edible escort cards… delicious sugar cookies with an edible image to correspond to the event decor. Each guests’ name is printed on the cookie, along with their table number. Functional and surprising.


Of course monogrammed cookies, luscious salted caramels and chocolate truffles are always good traditional options. Mini cakes are a decadent and truly special treat. Packages of cookies made from a cherished family recipe is a smart and sentimental gift to send home with your friends and family. The options are limitless and are inspired by the wedding design and couples personal tastes.



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The Wedding Cake…and Context

One of the many reasons I love making wedding cakes, is that in some little way, I get to be part of the moment, the memory, of so many terrific couples. Some I hear from, some I don’t, and sometimes, its years later, when the first child’s birthday comes around when I hear how much they loved their wedding cake. Sometimes they tell me people still talk about it. So lovely to hear. Unlike so many other things in life, I don’t take it personally when I don’t hear from a bride on Monday morning… I didn’t call my cake maker after my wedding, (would have been hard from Belize) but my cake was everything I wanted and more.

So when Matt and Natalie sent me these gorgeous photos the other day, I had to catch my breath when I opened the email. This is a cake I delivered myself, and when I left it there, all lonesome in the middle of a huge room, against the back drop of massive windows, looking out to the city skyline, I definitely felt the room engulfing what now seemed to be this puny little cake. I felt a little sad that it wouldn’t be able to stand up to the show. But I was doing what I often council my couples not to… I was looking at it out of context! Its a whole different cake I see sitting before the beautiful couple, with the cheeky little guy sticking his finger into it, lit gloriously by the setting sun over Manhattan…. Suddenly this cake seems so much more than what it was when it left my hands. Matt and Natalie added that glow in the room that positively lit up that cake. Thanks to them for sharing this moment with me and teaching me, once again, the important lesson of context.

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Nonpareil Magazine





When I first stumbled onto Nonpareil Magazine, I knew I just wanted to be a part of it. Flipping through, I was smitten with the beautiful work and lovely photos, which you may know are two of my very favorite things!

Ever wanted to know how my lovely seating card cookies were made? DIY for that, along with edible cookie menu cards and corresponding table cake numbers can be found in the latest issue.

Thanks so very much to the lovely and ultra talented Lauren Hawkins of Lauren Hawkins Design who contributed her amazing talent to this project. She designed these cookie backgrounds, menu templates and gorgeous table runner. Lauren is a graphic genius and brilliant collaborator, who gets it right every single time.

So check out Nonpareil to read about my cookies, and drink up all the other brilliant inspiration in its pages!

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Financiers… and a Give Away!

Last week was a tease. A brief moment of the promise of fall, and as I do every year, I started to get ahead of myself. While I didn’t go so far as to pull the sweaters from hibernation, I did start to dream of dutch ovens and pressure cookers and all the hearty soup, stew and stocks that would soon be coming.

And of course, the beautiful week is followed up by the seventh or ninth or seventy ninth heatwave of the year, and so my dreams were set aside for a few more weeks. But since my oven is perpetually on, I thought I’d share a perfect in between season sweet, and hold a contest for the perfect baking molds for them, courtesy of the lovely people at cookware.com!

Financiers are just the most lovely of cakes. They are loaded with rich brown butter, and lightened by the addition of powdered sugar. Hearty, soft and delicate they also can pack in a lot of flavor, pretty much anything you choose. Inspired by a flavor combination I fell in love with on a trip to Belieze, these treats are bursting with coconut and bathed in a delicious banana chocolate ganache. These cakes are endlessly versatile. They can be baked in one large round or in adorable individual molds. The best part yet… extra batter can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks, making freshly baked dessert available to you at a moments notice.


And to make these beautiful babies just as adorable as they can be, I’m giving away two silicone baking mold sheets from cookware.com. To enter, leave a comment under this post about your own autumn inspired culinary fantasies by 5pm Friday, September 3, 2010 and I’ll pick a winner, and announce them on Tuesday, September 7th.

Link

For the Financiers:
(Inspired by a recipe by Sherry Yard)

8 oz or 2 sticks of unsalted butter
1 cup coconut flour (Bob’s Red Mill is one brand)
3/4 cup cake flour
2 1/2 cups powdered sugar
8 egg whites at room temperature
1/2 tsp natural coconut extract
1 tsp vanilla
1/2 tsp salt

Melt butter in a sauce pan over medium high, and cook it until the milk solids start to brown. Watch it carefully to prevent it from burning. Like caramel, its really easy to go from brown deliciousness, to burnt as you blink. Its also best to use a lighter colored pot for this, so you can see the transformation. Set the butter aside to cool for at least a half hour. If the butter is too hot it will ruin the cakes, so definitely let it sit but don’t refrigerate it either. It needs to stay liquid.

In the meantime, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Prepare the pans you’re using by spraying with pan spray, or butter and flour them. Silicone pans shouldn’t need more than a quick spray.

To amp up the flavor of the coconut flour, add it to a pan on the stove and toast it over high heat, stirring constantly to keep it toasting evenly and avoid burning it. It just takes a few moments to turn a warm toasted color. Let this cool. Sift the cooled coconut flour, cake flour and sugar and salt into the bowl of a standing mixer, and mix with the paddle attachment to combine. Combine the egg whites and extracts. Add this all at once to the flour mix and set to medium speed, mixing for 3 minutes.

Add the cooled butter all at once, scrapping down all those delicious brown bits, and mix for another 3 minutes. To make it easy to put into the individual sized pans, I transfer the mix to a pastry bag (plastic bag with the end cut off works just fine too) and fill the sections about 3/4 of the way up. Bake at 350 until just barely golden and set to to the touch… or the top bounces back when you touch the center of the cakes. I know you want times, and I’m sorry that I can’t provide them… every oven is different, pan size, type etc can all add or subtract from timing, so the best indicator to start to watch them is your nose. When you start to smell that delicious coconut flavor, its time to keep a close eye. You’ll be a better baker for it. Trust me.

When done, move them to a cooling rack, and unmold as soon as you can safely touch them.

The sauce:

4 oz heavy cream
4 oz best quality chocolate
1 large banana
1/8 tsp salt

Turn oven to 375. Poke banana a few times with the tip of a knife. Place it in the center of the oven and roast it until black…about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool. If your bananas are very ripe, you can skip this step.

Heat cream in a small sauce pan till boiling. Pour boiling cream over chocolate and let this sit for 5 minutes. Then whisk this until the cream and chocolate combines fully, into a shiny chocolate mixture. Put the banana and salt into the bowl of the food processor… process until smooth, then add the chocolate and process until fully combined and smooth.

Pour the chocolate cream on the plates, and place the cake on top. If you’d like to make the garnish, take another banana, slice it and dip the slices into granulated sugar. Use a kitchen torch to brule the sugar. If you don’t have a torch handy, you can do this in a broiler, watching it carefully to prevent burning. Let them cool before touching them, then place on the tops of your cakes.

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Setting a Scene…

I come from a long line of very crafty women. From the moment I could make a fist, someone was putting a pompom in it. I was never fortunate enough to have met my maternal grandmother, but I hear tales of her ability to recreate a dress after simply seeing it in a store.
There were pot holders weaved from nylon bands, that no sane person should ever try to lift a heavy, hot pot with, unless they want to fuse the nylon to their hands. Hook rugs, needle point, beads, and sewing in the early years. Lots of pipe cleaners, but for the life of me can’t remember a single use for them.

When I moved to New York, I was sure that my city lifestyle (and SUPER small apartment) was no place for craftiness. Thought it was uncool. But always the creative type, I headed to film school. I thought I would make films. I did make films, but while I was, I was also dabbling in photography, furniture building, mosaics, candles, late night baking, pretty much anything creative I could think of. There was a need to MAKE something, no matter what it was. My husband Jay defines the periods by how they affected him… glass in his feet in the mosaic days, gaining 10 pounds when I started making pies. (ok not really, he never gains weight ever, no matter how much sugar and left over cake I feed him. Hate him.)

I had no idea at the time that I was in training… turns out that all of those skills have at some point been useful in my cake journey. I know how to build things, create things, Make things. (thanks Mom) But what I think sometimes makes my work different from the other brilliant, talented cake people, is that I see things in scenes. And another perk of this choice of career is that I get to photograph my creations. No doubt my skills have grown since that very first creation, both in cake and in photography, but I still look forward to that moment after the cake is done when I get to set the background and the lights and capture the moment. My goal is not just to make a cool cake, but to set a scene and to convey a feeling in it, just like a shot in a film should, to tell their story in images. And just like people, some cakes photograph wonderfully, look gorgeous, and others… well, lets just say they have a great personality.

In cake, and photography, its all in the details… And as in film, rather than tell you my interpretation, I’d rather hear yours.



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